New video Tutorial on how to hem trousers

Taking up your own trousers is a great way to get a personalised fit. Doing it yourself will save you over a tenner a pop too, as that's what most drycleaners will charge you!!

Video Tutorial- How to make a girl's dress from a pillowcase

My little video tutorial on making girl's dresses from a pillowcase.

Perfect way to use up odd pillowcases, and their are charities that send these simple dresses to africa and other third world countries too!

New video tutorial- How to hem a dress

A quick video tutorial on hemming dresses

RENEW-my second aspirational word for 2012

RENEW-

This word allows me to accept the things i didn't achieve in 2011 and renew my commitment to them.
Last year i chose the word CREATE as one of my words, and sadly this is an area that slipped by.

I am Renewing my commitment to getting more personal creativity into my life.
I am Renewing my commitment to seeing more of my friends

My Best friend who i've not seen in months!

In 2012 RENEW for me is a personal commitment to renewing my wardrobe. I don't plan to do this with a big shopping spree however. I lost a lot of weight in 2011, and much of my wardrobe is now way too big for me. I have many great pieces that I love, and replacing them would be not only expensive, but very wasteful as the clothes are all still good.

I am a "Thrifty" Stitcher after all, so for the first 3 months of 2012 I will not be buying any new clothes except underwear and jeans. I plan to alter all the pieces in my wardrobe that I love, and re-fashion the pieces that are not alterable. I shall blog about this journey here.

Explore- my first new year aspiration

Aspirational words for 2012

Explore

In the last few years I seem to have become UK bound. Although I've taken a couple of beach holidays, I haven't had a travelling adventure for way too long. Deep within me is a well of wanderlust, and in 2012 I hope to feed that desire, hopefully with a trip to oz and new Zealand at the end of the year. I want to get back out there in the uk too, as there is so much to see and do in this wonderful island, and I need to escape the city of London a little more!

Explore is for me not just about far flung adventures. I live in one of the most amazing cities  in the world -London. Frankly I take everything that's available to do and see in the city for granted. I know a few areas really well, but there are so many parts of the city I just haven't been to! My mission this year is to fall back in love with London, to get out there and enjoy what's available in this incredible metropolis.

"Explore" isn't however just about Traveling, it's about taking time out to explore new things too. As we get older it's easy to stick to what we know, and not try out new things. As a stitcher my passion has always been making clothes, I've really never been interested in the decorative side of sewing, this year I plan to learn some quilting and embroidery. I doubt it will become my passion, but it will definately give me a challenge! There are other pastimes I've never taken up too. Whilst I am a pretty good cook, I only make savoury meals, never baking. I'd like to explore some baking skills. Who knows I may yet become an all round domestic diva!

Every day- I plan to take a different way on route to wherever I'm heading, and not take the familiar path
Every week- Visit somewhere in London I've never been before
Every month- try something new that  I've never done before.

Merry Christmas from The Thrifty Stitcher

Season's greetings from Claire-Louise Aka the Thrifty Stitcher

Patterns-do you make your own or buy commercial ones?

Feeling thoughtful about patterns this month. As a bespoke pattern cutter, I make one off patterns based on a unique set of measurements that fit one individual. However commercial patterns are designed to fit universally and are multi sized, but do require some skills to adjust. 
Making your own patterns is time consuming and very mathematical.  Once commercial pattern adjustments are learnt, it opens up a wealth of available  patterns which vary seasonally and have been road  tested by the manufacturer.
Then there's the tracing versus cutting debate! I like to cut out a tissue template, but many more fashionable patterns like burdastyle come as traceable patterns, with multiple patterns laid on top of one another. Personally, just looking at the multi pattern sheets in the burda style mag, makes me feel queasy, but I will be making myself do this over the next month in the name of research!

So are you a cutter or tracer? A pattern maker or consumer of commercially bought patterns?

I'd love to hear your thoughts?

Happy Stitching!

How to choose a sewing class

Sewing is a bit like cooking, there are some basic skills you'll need to learn. Jumping into a class making for example a tailored garment is like making a souffle when you've never even scrambled an egg.

Before looking for a class, decide what you want from your sewing. If you only want to do dazzling embroidery, then a class on sewing machines is probably a waste of time and money. However if you think you'd like to do dazzling embroidery by hand and then turn your creation into a usable object then learning how to get to grips with the sewing machine could be just the ticket.

If you're looking to become the next Stella Macartney, then you should think about investing a good chunk of time and money on a long course. If your end point is to be a Fashion or Costume  designer then you'll need a broad skills base that you just can't pick up at a weekend workshop. However if you're looking to discover a new hobby, or fancy learning to sew just for sheer pleasure, then don't sign up for long extended courses as there are lots of fabulous short workshops out there which will give you the start you need. Many of these classes result in a finished project by the end of the class, giving you a real confidence boost.

Be honest with yourself about how skilled you currently are. Most classes have a list of Pre-requisite skills.  If you've tinkered with a sewing machine but never actually made anything, then signing up for an advanced class will leave you feeling left behind and out of your depth and may well put you off sewing. So if you've only attended one class on how to use a sewing machine, then do have a good practise before moving onto an intermediate class, you'll get much more from the intermediate session when you're ready.

Choose where and how you want to study carefully. Attending a night school programme is a really cost effective way to learn. They are run with large groups, and you won't get masses of individual attention. They allow you to learn slowly however, with classes being a couple of hours each week for about 10 weeks. This gives you a lot of opportunity to practise in between sessions. If you want a more intensive quick start to learning to sew, then short private workshops may suit you better. These are more expensive but are usually stand alone workshops, or short programmes over a couple of weeks rather than a term. Most private workshops have smaller groups, giving you more personal attention from the tutor.
Research the venue you're interested in attending. If the venue is a long way from where you live or work, then you may not want the extra travel. There are lots of choices out there, and you may well find one just around the corner. Decide if the venue offers what you're really looking for. For example if you're interested in upcycling and re-purposing clothes then choose a venue that is renowned for those classes. You Most venues will give you information about your tutor too, so if you see a tutor that's interested in the things you like, they are likely to be s good fit.
A shared passion is a great way to make friends too, so if you're hoping to make new friends then pick a class and venue that really suits you.

Learning to sew will take time, so be realistic about what you'll get from your classes. In one afternoon, you'll never get that wedding dress made from scratch! Expect to make some mistakes, unpicking is part of sewing, and at some point you'll have to do it!

There's never been so much choice of sewing classes as there is right now. Whatever you want to sew for, there will be a class out there for you. 
Happy hunting, and happy stitching

Delicious winter hair accessories from Hat Therapy

Another brilliant guest blog tutorial from my friend and expert milliner Chrissie, from Hat Therapy


To make yourself a simple hair clip/slide this winter which can be as simple or as fancy as you like, just follow these simple insruction.

1  Cut a feather shape in felt, either from millinery felt  [ available from Baxter hart and abraham in Luton. ] or from craft felt which you can buy from most craft shops.


2 Cut a piece of wire the same length as your feather shape

3 Decide how many cuts you want into your feather towards the center but be careful not to cut too far.

4 Sew your wire along the center BACK this will give your feather support and allow you to give it shape.

5 Now you can trim your feather with sequins, bottons, beads, glitter  etc.

6 Using the same technique make some leaves too

6 Add to a hair clip or hair slide use a strong glue  like uhu. Why not make a few and arrange in a cluster like this?

This is a great way to decorate a simple felt cloche, and works on the humble beret too!

Happy Stitching!

Love from Chrissie

Pressing News

Pressing is the key to a great finish when sewing.
A bad stitcher can press away many mistakes, but a good stitcher who doesn't press will have lumpy unpolished looking projects. Apart from your sewing machine, your iron is really a Stitcher's best friend

When choosing an iron, you need to have a little bit of weight to the iron. You are "pressing" not ironing. I find ceramic sole-plates are easy to clean should you get gunk there. You don't need to spend a fortune, but don't expect the £5 Argos iron to do the job either.

Couple of my fav irons

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Tefal-Ultraglide-FV4355-Steam-Watts/dp/B001GJR2NM/ref=sr_1_5?s=kitchen&ie=UTF8&qid=1315571000&sr=1-5

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Tefal-Ultraglide-FV4375-Steam-Watts/dp/B001P3NWOW/ref=sr_1_8?s=kitchen&ie=UTF8&qid=1315571123&sr=1-8

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Morphy-Richards-40668-Turbosteam-Mulberry/dp/B002NPC0SA/ref=dp_cp_ob_kh_title_2

Your ironing board choice is also important. I like a large board, and i usually add an additional layer of foam under the cover to give a nice thick pressing surface. Ironing board covers get marked and scorched. Generally you want to replace a scorched board to prevent transfer onto your lovely new sewing project. I have spent some time over the years attempting to remove the horrid brown transfer from newly pressed items.

Once you've got your iron and board, I suggest cutting up some old muslin/lightweight cotton to use as a pressing cloth. You can buy these as a gadget, but personally I think it's a con! Pressing cloths are very useful when you don't want fabric to go shiny/melt or scorch. I usually use one when pressing a garment on the right side.

I am a self confessed gadget- aholic. For home stitchers however I really do recommend the following 2 gadgets.

A tailors ham- Used for pressing all differently sized curves. My best friend.....

This is my ham in use pressing the bust darts on a fitted bombshell Dress

 

My other favourite pressing gadget that I really do recommend purchasing is a sleeve board. I have a vintage one that I love, but if space is tight get a collapsable one, that should only set you back about £10.

Sleeve boards are great for pressing hems, sleeve seams and all those tricky places you can't get to on your regular ironing board

My sleeve board in action pressing a sleeve cuff

After taking these pictures I have made my sleeve board a new cover. I used the good bits from a scorched ironing board cover i was replacing. Waste not, want not......

THE THRIFTY STITCHER - Online Booking by ClickBook.Net

New online appointment booking system for our 121 sewing sessions.

THE THRIFTY STITCHER - Online Booking by ClickBook.Net

There is also a "book now" button on the website too, so even night owls can schedule a session to suit....

New classes for Autumn

Most of the Thrifty Stitcher students want to move on from sewing machine basics to altering their own clothes. A trip to the dry-cleaners for short ladies like me with 4 pairs of trousers and a skirt to shorten adds up to a hefty £50 bill! Being able to do your own simple alterations means shopping freedom, you will no longer have to mentally add in the cost of getting that bargain adjusted. You can safely bag the best bargains and tailor them at home for free!

Event Registration Online for SOS Sewing - Alterations Masterclass powered by Eventbrite

Once you've stopped being scared of the sewing machine, most new stitchers are keen to use commercial patterns. These patterns are a great way to start dressmaking, but can seem like you need to learn a whole new language. This autumn we are running a short class on de-mystifying paper patterns. There will be a bit of sewing involved towards the end of the session, so this class isn't for absolute beginners. But it's a great way to start understanding the language of patterns. If you're itching to start on a specific pattern, bring it along and get it out of the packet and onto some fabric!

Online Ticketing for Paper patterns de-mystified powered by Eventbrite

Changing a sewing machine needle

Sewing machine needles are not a purchase for life!
They should be changed for every 8 hours of continuous sewing, and for each new project or different fabric.They need to be the right choice of needle for that fabric. If sewing denim, and you try and use the same needle for chiffon, you will very likely snag the chiffon.

Sewing machine needles are generally all universal for domestic machines, but it is worth checking your manual to ensure you get the right needle for your machine. In general the larger the needle number, the thicker and bigger the needle is.
The needle I use the most for dressmaking is a Schmetz universal  705H needle number 80/12. This is a great needle for fairly fine woven fabrics.
If sewing heavier cottons I use Schmetz universal  705H needle number 90/14

When sewing jersey I use a ball point needle. This type of needle seperates the fibres, rather than splitting them like a regular sharp needle does. The tip of this needle is rounded, and it is only useful for knitted fabrics, and won't work on woven fabrics.

There are lots of job specific needles for trickier fabrics available. These are the ones I commonly use-

1. A denim needle. Some people just use a thick needle, but the point on regular needles may not pierce the denim as well as a denim needle. Denim needles are strong, but have extra sharp points, allowing the needle to pierce the densely woven fabric.
2. A leather needle. The point of a leather needle is actually shaped more like a blade, this creates a triangular hole in the leather. Using a regular needle creates a small split which will over time tear and ruin the garment
3. An extra sharp microtex needle. I use these for delicates like silk and satin.
4. Stretch needles. These are great when stitching really stretch stuff like elastic and lycra, or any stretch fabric where your machine has been skipping stitches.

The choice of brand for machine needles, is to me a very important one. Some of the very cheap needles, just aren't good, and you'll pay twice! I use schmetz, or groz beckert needles. Both of these brands are German and they have proved to be the best needles I've used.

Changing your needle is a really simple operation.

- Hold the needle with your left hand and unscrew the screw at the top of the needle. Holding the needle ensures it doesn't drop inside your machine. I keep a sharps box to dispose of my needles.

- The flat side of the needle is the back

- With the flat side at the back, push the new needle up inside the sewing foot as high as it will go, and then tighten the screw.

- Just to double check that the needle is in the right way, run your thumbnail up the front of the needle, you should feel a groove if it's in correctly.

All done, and you're now ready to continue sewing...

Clean your sewing machine and improve it's performance

It's important for sewing machines to be regularly cleaned, as the fibres and lint from fabric and thread will slow it down, and may well transfer onto your lovely fabric. A blob of grimey dust on that lovely "must have" fabric could seriously ruin your sewing pleasure!

Getting your machine serviced regularly is important, as the engineer does more than just cleaning the machine. However if you try and clean the bobbin case area yourself every month, you'll save on how regularly the machine needs a service.

This weekend I cleaned out my 6 janomes, and boy where they grimey underneath the bobbin case!

The instructions below are for cleaning out a top loading machine. First thing is to get out your manual, and see how they advise you to clean the machine. Most top loaders can be done in the same way as the instructions below. I lay my screws and removed parts in a mirror of how they came out of the machine, making it easier to put it all back in the right order. If you're worried about forgetting where something came from, then take pictures at each stage.

1 -To remove the bobbin case on a top loader, you need to start by removing the sole plate, which may be screwed on.

2- You now need to remove the bobbin case which is the black plastic holder in the centre.

3- Once the bobbin case is removed, you can now see how much hidden fluff, and dust there was beneath it! Use the brush that came with your machine to get it all out. A can of pressurised air is also a useful tool to blow the dust out of hard to reach areas

4- Using the sharp pointy end of the cleaning brush, hook out any other areas of fluff around edges of all the metal bits you can see

5- Fluff also likes to collect at the top of the needle, and on presser foot, so make sure you give those areas a once over too.

6- The underneath of your bobbin case should hopefully now look lovely and clean

7 - There are screws that allow you to get to areas further inside your machine. I generally don't go any further, as the more small bits I remove, the more likelihood there is that I won't be able to get them back in! I save that for when the machines are serviced.

8- You now need to put the bobbin case back in, there is a tiny split at the front which will give you a guideline. Then replace the sole plate. Your machine will thank you for giving it a little clear out!

Threading a sewing machine

Here is the second of my mini video tutorials showing how to thread up your sewing machine, and pull up the pesky bobbin thread!

My day job

I have 2 lives, one is as The Thrifty Stitcher teaching sewing, The other is as a Professional Wardrobe Mistress in London's West End. If you'd like to know a little more about what that actually is, then check out my interview with StageWon

Vintage style corsage

This weekend there is a large vintage festival happening here in london, and it's the perfect opportunity to make yourself a "Vintage" style corsage or mini cocktail fascinator. Don't worry, you don't need lots of equipment, and you may well have some materials lying about in your stash.
This is also the perfect project to 'upcycle' a couple of old fascinators you don't wear any more.


Fabulous professional Milliner Chrissie King of Hat therapy has kindly put together a mini tutorial for us. If you don't fancy making your own, pop over to her site and buy one of her fabulous vintage inspired pieces!


To make this corsage you will need
3 biot feathers
(available from Baxter Hart millinery supplies 10cm £2.20 about 25 - 30 in a 10cm strip many colours.
tel 01582 721381)

30CM of half inch petersham ribbon
1 brooch pin
1 button

---------------------------

Pull out 3 biots from your strip

Pull edge to edge and sew together  repeat with other 2 feathers

Sew all 3 together

Loop 1 end of petersham ribbon then rpt with the other 2, making them slightly bigger each time. Sew together

  

Sew your petersham bow and 3 biot loops together

Add your button by sewing through ribbon and biots ending with thread at the front, sew button.

Turn over and sew on your brooch pin secure well.

This can now be worn as a corsage or pin on a hat or headband.
If you use a woven fascinator disk that has a hair comb already sewn in you can create a mini cocktail comb.

Happy Summer

Chrissie King- Hat therapy

Make a simple pleated skirt with DIY Couture and The Thrifty Stitcher

Autumn, my favourite season, is just around the corner. Whilst I'm still basking in our great British summer.... I've also been thinking about what's around the corner. Skirts are a brilliant garment to bridge the seasons, wear bare legged through an indian summer, and slip on top of opaque tights when the rain falls.

  

I am so excited to announce that fellow Hackney Entrepreneur and Fashionista Rosie Martin of DIY Couture fame is bringing her unique "How to make a simple skirt without a pattern" class to The Thrifty Stitcher on September 25th.

Rosie loves high fashion, and was dissapointed by the lack of  fabulous contemporary dressmaking patterns available for home stitchers. Rosie set out to create a collection that could be easily made at home, piece by piece through simple instructions and beautiful photos. The first 3 pieces are available as delightful instruction books, and do away with the need for a fiddly pattern.

If you want to make your own clothes, and can already thread and use a sewing machine, then this Skirt class is a great way to start dressmaking. Included in the cost is a copy of Rosie's skirt book, and you'll be led through the day by Rosie herself ( I'll be the glamorous assistant for this session)

You bring along your own fabric, so you'll make the skirt you've always wanted, we'll provide the know how, tools and equipment and some DIY Couture magic!
We've a summer sale, so grab a 15% discounted class here

Fabric care and storage

Top tips for clothing and fabric care & storage

Clothes, fabric and wool that are stored will attract the Webbing Clothes Moth. Moth eaten fabric and clothes are depressing and the holes will weaken the fabric and in some cases make it unwearable or unusable. Moths have been a real problem for the last few years, and 2011 is set to be one of the highest in terms of moth infestations. You can bring moths into your home from buying clothes/fabric, transference from someone who has moths in their home, and they fly in during summer months!

• You need to use deterrents, and they need to be replaced every 6 months. 
• If you get an infestation, the moths will attack not only fabric but books, papers and photographs, so all your precious memories can be reduced to dust!
• Start by using lavender bags/sachets, and cedar. I personally can’t bear moth balls which are super effective, but stinky! 
• The best and cheapest resource and supplier of moth products I’ve found is this one.

          http://www.mothcontroldirect.co.uk/acatalog/clothesmoth.html

• Pheromone traps are a great way to break the breeding cycle without using chemicals. The moths think they are all male! These sticky traps are also a good way to monitor how big a moth problem you may have.
• Spring cleaning is a tradition for a reason. In order to get rid of moth eggs, you need to empty drawers and cupboards and clean out all the surfaces. Moths like to breed under static areas like furniture, so moving your furniture out and cleaning underneath breaks their cycle. Sunlight also kills eggs, so getting rugs and carpets outside and thoroughly beating them and leaving in sunlight will kill any eggs/larvae.
• If like me, you don't have access to a garden, then running a sticky roller brush over your clothing can lift off eggs.
• Ensure you change your hoover bag regularly. You may well hoover up eggs, and the hoover bag is a perfect environment for the moths to breed in! It's pretty gross, opening up the hoover and finding a big bunch of moths.....

Storing Fabric and clothes

This can be a nightmare. In terms of fabric storage i need to be able to access my stash, and see exactly what i've got. 

Using plastic for storage is a contentious topic. Whilst plastic vacuum bags are great in the fight against moths, they can leak plastic fumes, which isn't great for valuable vintage fabric and clothes. Personally i don't want to see my lovely old things being eaten away by moths, so I do use some plastic storage. 

I have limited space in my home for fabric storage, so i try and use what i already have. CD storage towers are great for showcasing smaller pieces of fabric, just make sure it's not in direct sunlight as the fabric will fade

A great system for easily storing and finding fabrics is the Antonius System in the Ikea wardrobe range which you can customise to suit your own needs http://www.ikea.com/gb/en/catalog/ products/S29877698

Get the most out of your sewing machine

Top tips for sewing machines

A good sewing machine whether it's new or vintage needs some love and TLC! Here are a few tips on keeping your machine running well

• Learn how to de-fluff your sewing machine. Use a pressurised air-can that is sold for cleaning keyboards. The fluff in the bobbin area of your machine soaks up the oil and can clog the mechanism. Doing this yourself will prolong the life of your machine, and cost you less in servicing.

• Do get your machine serviced regularly. That clunking noise in your machine means something is out of sync! You wouldn’t dream of driving your car for ten years without a service, and like cars, sewing machines have moveable parts that need maintenance. If you don’t use it very often then every couple of years should be okay, and if you use it regularly then do every year. A service should cost around £45

• Keep your manual handy! So many tasks you may want to do are explained in your manual, so it is an invaluable resource. If you’ve got a vintage machine with no manual, then check out this site to see if it’s there. http://www.sewingmanuals.com/

• If you like doing a specific task like gathering, or piping, research whether or not there is a special foot for your machine that makes that task quicker. A piping foot for example gives you a perfect result each time, without you having to put as much effort in. I always buy an invisible zip foot, as I do lots of those types of zips, and the foot makes it so easy.

• Change your needle! Many people have had the same needle in since they bought their machine. Needles on average last a continuous 8 hours only! You need to change your needle according to the fabric you’re using. A fine needle for delicates and a thicker needle for heavier fabrics. Needles are made for specific tasks, for example a denim needle is the best choice for jeans, it’s strong but has a very sharp point that will pierce the dense fabric. This is a great article on what needle to use for what fabric http://thesewingdirectory.blogspot.com/2010/09/n-is-for-needle.html

• Needles and pins are one area that buying cheap means you pay twice. I always use Schmetz, or Gros-Beckert needles which are German and very high quality. For hand sewing I usually use John James which are British steel, or Milward needles. For pins I use a longer, finer good quality brand like Prym.